We Wind Down Our First Portugal Experience

HOME

In the last few days of our stay in Portugal, we were hosted by a gracious couple who have been part-time residents of Sao Martinho do Porto for around 20 years while living mainly in the central valley of California. They ask that we use a contracted abbreviation of their names, so we'll call them here "RhEd". Our meeting them produced a friendship for which we are very grateful. We'll spare the specifics of the fortuitous encounter at this point. Suffice to state that they posses a remarkable and encyclopedic wealth of historical knowledge that they willingly and enthusiastically share with their fortunate guests.

RhEd have guided us through the most incredible historical and artistic sites and stunning vistas along the "Silver Coast" of Portugal. It starts about one hour north of Lisbon and extends up the Atlantic Coast to about Porto. Through several day-tours of the area they showed us 14th Century chapels, monasteries, fortresses, murals, statuary, battle sites, town squares and various structures secular and religious. In addition, just a short drive from their house, we explored sites of timeless natural beauty and charm. We would not have encountered these treasures on our own. We offer them our gratitude.

Nazare

Some will be familiar with the 100+ foot waves of Nazare made famous by documentaries of this phenomenon and the surfing elite who risk their lives for the chance to ride these monsters. There is so much more here. It was and perhaps remains a significant Christian site anchored by the Santuaria de Nossa Senhora de Nazare, Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazare, a Baroque church renovated and remodeled repeatedly between the 16th and 19th Centuries on Nazare's promontory overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It's interior contains a remarkable display of Azulejo, the blue and white Portuguese and Spanish tiles that adorn the interiors of buildings throughout the Iberian Peninsula.

The Catholic Church has maintained a strong force in Nazare for centuries. Iconography reinforces stories and legends of miracles and brings tourists in large numbers. The Virgin with infant is ubiquitous, of course.

There is another popular one of note here: The Legend of Nazare has it that a wooden statue of the Madonna breastfeeding the infant hidden under an overhang in the cliff saved a nobleman in 1182. Dom Fuas Roupinho on horseback chasing a deer in heavy fog realizing he was near death at the cliff's edge shouted a quick prayer to the Madonna and was spared the fall from the cliff that would have killed him. In gratitude, Dom Roupinho built a chapel on the overhang over the spot where the Madonna's statue had been hidden. It attracts tourists and locals equally.

Frutos do Mar

Here in the off-season, Nazare's fish market is not full, and streets, roads, and shops are not crowded, and some vendors are not active. Consequently, the hum of the market is low-level. Still, even off-season, the selection of freshly caught fish, produce harvested hours or days before appearing in the market, and cheese is sufficient for any gourmet chef.

Along the streets, we found statuary and images depicting wives and widows scanning the water looking for the return of husbands who braved the dangerous waves and currents and tides to harvest the sea life to suppot their families. One memorable statue captures a wife holding the corpse of her husband washed ashore at the foot of the cliffs. Sadly, it still happens along this dangerous shoreline.

Portugal: Back at Sim Ou Sopas

A few nights ago (remember I never promised you precision), on the evening before our departure from Porto, we decided to have a farewell dinner at Sim Ou Sopas with our gracious host, Solanja Ribeiro and the lovely sous chef-hostess-friend Diana. I introduced you to them in an earlier post. There we met two new group members from the U.S.:  Melissa from Hawaii and Madina from Seattle, both of whom will move or have moved to Portugal and both of whom are in the textile/fashion industry.  They had not previously met. I believe Solanja has a way of bringing compatible strangers together. Joining us was Goncalvo, world-wide traveller, high-tech guru, and genuine Portuguese whom we encountered at the previous Sim Ou Sopas celebration. 

The food goddesses started us out with Sopa de Legumes, a pureed vegetable soup thickened with potatoes, I believe. I think some wine was presented--seems likely as I consider it. We moved on to an assortment of what I'll call frittata or maybe quiche, perhaps pie is more accurate. I'm not sure about the nomenclature but I am certain about the incredible quality of the food and the pleasure it brought us:

• Tarte de Abobora e Requerjao                               Pumpkin and cheese pie
• Tarte de Espinafres                                                Spinach, bacon, and cheese pie
• Tarte de Frango e Terjao Verde                             Chicken and green beans pie

These are all cut into serving size portions on a platter with some colorful garnish.Then, the main course. Oh, and there might have been some more wine poured along the way.

• Bochechas de Vitela de Comer a Colher             Stewed veal cheeks 
• Batatas Assadas                                                   Oven-baked potatoes
• Arroz Arabe                                                           Arabic rice

Veal cheeks at Sim Ou Sopas 

Oh, my! Our first experience with this. The flavor, texture, aroma, succulence--all so memorable. Clearly, Solanja and Diana retain the abundant heart love that made each experience here so important to us.

Did Diana refill our wine glasses again at this point? Not sure. I'll leave the conjecture to you.

We finished the evening with good-byes, until we meet agains, embraces, smiles, laughter. Sim Ou Sopas is one of our most important experiences in Portugal. I'm not sure that Solanja is open for walk-ins. I recommend calling her; she speaks English, probably French and Spanish as well. Here is her number in Porto: +351 909 997. If you are strolling around the Foz area of Porto, you can find her at Rua Candada Sa de Albergana 226.

Portugal: Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia by Metro

 Vinho do Porto (Port wine) is sweet and has a high alcohol content of around 20% due to the addition of aguardiente, which is somewhat brandy-like but not really brandy. This is done to stop the fermentation process at the optimal strategic point. It also adds additional sugar and alcohol. It works quite well in our view. 

I, a very health conscious person, have attributed certain significant health benefits to the consumption of this very special digestive. Nitpickers might accuse me of making scientifically unsupportable claims here. Well, I acknowledge that my claims are based largely on personal anecdotal accounts (yes, my own). Third-party affirmation aside, I remain convinced; draw your own conclusions.

Grapes for Portugal's version of Port are grown, harvested, and crushed in the Douro Valley region of northern Portugal. The resulting elixir is shipped in stainless steel tankers to Vila Nova de Gaia on the southern bank of the Douro River across from Porto. Here, the aging process, lasting at least two years and often much longer, occurs only in French oak casks built upon wooden floors in caves, lodges. Humidity is modified by humans who are entrusted to open certain strategically placed spigots to allow the pooling of rain and river water in stone tubs and to slightly moisten the wooden floors. No human intervention is allowed in regulating the temperature. The abundant cloud cover and rainfall and insulating properties of stone walls on the southern bank do that job perfectly.

Millions of liters of Port stored for aging in the 

Sandeman facility

The Sandeman company chose a unique logo from a 

painting by a Scottish artist around 1920

In Porto, we boarded a Metro train at the Trindade station, which is about a three-minute stroll from the little apartment we are renting for this brief stay. There we boarded the Jardim de Morro line to cross one of the six bridges, the Ponte Luis I in this case, spanning the Douro River to get to Gaia. It took three stops and perhaps 10 minutes. The train was crowded with what we judge to be incredibly patient, polite people, and it was immaculately clean. Observant uniformed personnel, many with police insignia and equipment at their sides, patrol the stations. We are always happy to encounter them and confidently engage with them when we have questions. They all project strength and confidence and always seem happy to help. I believe their presence contributes to our feeling of safety at these stations and throughout Porto.

The Gaia train stop perches atop a high promontory overlooking the Douro and Porto. What a sight, especially at dusk! Sunset watchers by the hundreds gather here in the evening and listen to the buskers performing their art. It has the feel of an outdoor concert. 

A view of the Porto side of the Douro taken 

from the Gaia promontory

This is just the beginning of the crowd
assembling to watch the sunset and
enjoy the music

The steep descent from there took us to this planet's largest concentration of caves carved into facilities housing millions of liters of Port wine awaiting the right moment for bottling where further aging may or may not occur. These decisions are based on the judgment of specially gifted, trained, and honored humans who determine the desired result and know how to achieve it.

Earlier, we arranged to meet up with newly acquired and thoroughly delightful American friends: Paul and Karin (with an "i", to be sure) in front of the Sandeman cave where we enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Micha restaurant followed by a tour of the Sandeman Port facility. Our guide shared her extensive knowledge with humor, and at the end we enjoyed a tasting flight of a white, a ruby, and a tawny. We met up with two British couples at our table who were at least equally enthusiastic about the experience and pleased to share their memories of touring parts of the U.S. while we discussed the various parts of England that we plan to visit.

Our American friends pondering the medicinal 

benefits of Port wine

Porto continues to delight and surprise us and demands a return.

Mary Lou has posted her photos of the day on Instagram. They reproduce there so much better than here on Blogger. Enjoy at instagram.com and search for 4661molinaro.

Portugal: Ponte de Lima

 What was previously a Roman settlement, Ponte de Lima is a very small village just northeast of Porto in the Viana do Castelo region of Portugal. It is one of the oldest chartered towns in the country and clearly one of the most picturesque.

It's 1st Century bridge (Ponte, of course), actually rebuilt in the 11th Century, spans a very slow moving body of water, the Lima River, with origins in Spain. Today, in the sleekest imaginable high-tech plastic one-person vessels exceeding 20 feet, kayakers with $700 carbon fiber paddles move along on the gentle flow and usually smooth surface. Imagine the contrast that presents with ancient Romans traversing underneath the bridge in whatever crude craft they had at the time out of necessity, just to live.

Imagine ancient people transporting goods in donkey carts across the river.

On the second Monday of each month, the village hosts one of the largest country markets you will likely ever encounter. Food, plants, flowers, clothing, crafts, and art, along with other goods of a large variety are displayed in stalls mostly covered by canvas over metal or wood poles. Hawkers shout out the quality of their goods in a cadence somewhat like that of old newspaper boys or carnival barkers.

Quantities you might find in a supermarket produce section, yet these will be fresh out of the ground or off of trees or bushes.

Building facades in this village, like much of the rest of Portugal, demand attention and lingering and photographing--no way to escape that, don't try--you might hurt yourself.

To the left, the antiquity of the stone structure. Connected on the right, a modern building with its new, perfect facade.

Ponte de Lima, a story-book village, is well worth a return visit. Put it on your list when you visit Porto--you must, really.

Portugal: Porto

Porto

Porto is a city that prospered at the outset of civilization here from ship building, shipping, navigation, port wine, creative culinary geniuses, beautiful people, and incredible art and architecture.

Archeological digs within and around the area of Porto reveal structures and artifacts attributed to Phoenician and Celtic mariners and traders from around 800 BCE.

It is wet and cool in the winter, dry and occasionally wet and cool in the summer. Rain gear would help ameliorate this mild inconvenience, I imagine, while one enjoys the beauty of the Douro River meeting the Atlantic Ocean, the bridges, the tiled fronts of the centuries old buildings, and the Romanesque fortress walls.

-----------------

(Genius segue to modern times): Now, don't read another word of this account until after you have viewed this incredible time lapse vid, the link to which Mary Lou provided:

Timelapse - Oporto Showreel 2015

https://vimeo.com/149196921 

Captures it well, don't you think? The contributor to this Vimeo vid is pauloferreirapt.

----------------------

We decided that we aren't that excited about the Algarve: nice place to visit for a few days, but for extended stays, well, mehhhh. So, we rented an Air B&B studio with a loft (hate the stairs) in Porto's city center. On our first late afternoon stroll in the Foz (Fosh) area, we encountered a small, contemporary restaurant, the Sim Ou Sopas (something like "Yes Soup", it's idiomatic and anyway, I am not yet the guy for precise translations, OK?).  As we scanned the elegant menu artfully emblazoned on the glass entry door, we caught the vision of a lovely, young woman, elegantly dressed, approaching from within with a warm, gracious smile. Upon opening the door, Solanja Ribeiro, sole proprietress of the place gave us the Boa Tarde greeting and engaged us in a chat, she speaks English quite well, you see. She gave us her card for future reference.

Solanja was very patient with my intrusions into her space.

After a couple of questions about a dish or two, Solanja described a traditional Portuguese festival dish of beans and various pork cuts simmered in a stew like broth that was not on the menu. "Do you have any openings tonight for a couple of hungry Americans?" I asked. She must have liked the inquiry, responding with, "Yes, 7:30 work for you?"

Oh, My! Life changing experiences are clearly still possible for us. What an evening. Not just because of the delicious food obviously made with love in the heart: Teijoado a Transmontana, Sopa de Couve Flor,  Broa de Milho -- look 'em up. Oh, no, not just the exquisite food. There was Miguel from Portugal and Daphne and Lauren from the U.S. They work together in the fashion industry. Miguel grew up in Porto and has been friends with Solanja for quite a while.  Their initial embrace of us was ritualistic, thereafter, it was familial.

"We are having a special meal tomorrow night to celebrate Kevin's one year anniversary of Portuguese residency," declared Miguel. "You must join us." We gratefully agreed. 

"Who is Kevin?" ML asked. "You'll meet him tomorrow and you'll love him," Miguel assured us. 'Nuff said, we were all in.

The experience of Kevin's celebration made us newly adopted members of a family that includes another Yank or two, an Israeli, several more Portugese, and I don't know what all else. Solanja with help from her friend Diana, another lovely, warm girl who clearly has experience in a restaurant setting. She cuts, chops, arranges, and serves with an abundance of heart love. The meal this night was Robalo baked in a salt crust: so moist, such flavor, so visually appealing. There were a number of exquisite side dishes, the names of which I have forgotten.

Next day, ML gets a txt from Barry, another celebrant. "Hello, Darling. What doing today? U 2 want to meet me for lunch with my friend Carolyn down at the shore?" Barry is a recent emigre from the U.S., having lived in Hong Kong, various places in Europe, and I forget where else. Gracious, endearing man. Carolyn is delightful, another emigre from Seattle, San Francisco, and NYC. Today, Carolyn txt'd ML with an invitation to visit her in Matosinhos, a town adjacent to Porto, at our earliest convenience. 

Risotto nero with cuttlefish and an Aperol spritzer for lunch. Of course.

After the good-bye embraces, we strolled some more, continuing the regimen of 10k steps per day, as FitBit tells us. Beautiful leather goods displayed in local shops: purses, shoes, belts, wallets. Of course, clothing, ceramics, what-all, by local artisans. We drove over to Vila Nova de Gaia to scope out the shops selling Port and the cliff location famous for sunset viewing.

Porto continues to amaze us. We'll be retuning to visit and embrace the newly found family members.

Grand Daughter Zoe is a Harry Potter devotee, so we had to visit Livraria Lello and provide the proof.

The Dom Luis Bridge, one of six to get you across the Douro

Vivid colors on the faces of these old structures atop these Romanesque walls along the Douro River

Portugal: Quarteira Dinner Feb 24

 24 Feb: Salmora Restaurant in Quarteira

Imagine a frustrating day during which you are confined to a small, stuffy apartment because of bad weather or other circumstances and you have nothing in the fridge for dinner. And, with no enthusiasm whatever, expecting displeasure and discomfort, you drag your discouraged self out into the wet, freezing night willing to settle for just a minimally satisfying meal to get you through the night. And you happen upon a gem of a refuge so warm looking, so attractive, so inviting that without discussion, without hesitation, you and your spouse walk into the place as though it were your intention all along.

Salmora Restaurant in Quarteira, Portugal

And you are greeted by a welcoming, gracious, charming waiter who it appears has been waiting only for you on this night--who makes you feel that you are the only people on the planet who matter at this particular time. And he seats you at the optimal spot in the place where you can watch the chefs and kitchen staff perform their art expressly for you. 

And your waiter, now your best friend at least for this evening, goes through a tapas type menu explaining in excellent English the preparation and details of every item that would be of interest to you. He, in this case Luis, gives you all the time you need, answers all your questions, ascertains your special dietary needs: no gluten please, no garlic, no beef, etc. and helps you make the perfect selections.

And the dishes come to the table in short order, savory, hot, perfectly presented. In Mary Lou's case, Bacalhau a Bras, dried, salted codfish rehydrated in a delicious fish broth, thickened with egg and covered with the thinest possible string sized potato strips so that you get the creamy softness of the fish and egg with just a bit of crunch from the potatoes. In my case, sauteed prawns in lemon grass, onion, and fish broth absent the garlic and spicy peppers that spoil every dish for me. 

Oh my! This day was salvaged just by overcoming the lethargy that kept us indoors on this  inclement day and pushing ourselves out the door not knowing exactly what we might encounter. 

Portugal is a wonderland. The food, the people, the ocean coves, the wine country.

The Salmora, find it when you visit Quarteira.

Portugal: Obidos

 19 Feb

A couple of hours north of Lisbon just inland from the Silver Coast in a portion of the country marked by hills and valleys is Obidos. Anthropologists and Archeologists tell us that evidence exists here for human habitation since the late Paleolithic Period. Groups that dominated the settlement include Phoenicians, Moors, Visigoths, Celts, and of course, Romans. Church and military influence remains clear in the fortress walls and religious structures and icons.

Check out this image of a family of buskers who performed for tourist coins within a cove near the entrance to one of the courtyards. I can't make the audio work here, but Mary Lou has posted the vid on instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4661molinaro/

Non ti scordar di me . . . 

Shops, restaurants, even hotels with incredibly vivid colors: blues, reds, greens line the narrow, cobblestone streets that wind up the hillside. Be prepared for walking inclines up and down.

Wear comfortable, quality walking/hiking shoes.

We had a brief sit down in a small organic espresso/pastry/sandwich shop, The Avocado, and added some tourist watching to the day's experience. 

Sao Martinho do Porto/ Nazare

 

17 Feb

We left Quarteira early for the drive up the coast to our first stop, Sao Martinho do Porto along the silver coast where we (I) enjoyed a freshly baked pastel de nata, egg custard tart, along with our espresso. We had a lovely chat with a very helpful local resident, a Brit.

In the afternoon, we continued on to Nazare, where thanks to the recommendation of the hotel clerk, we enjoyed an incredible meal at a nearly empty restaurant.

Sao Martinho do Porto

Double cove makes the small marina here very calm. It's in the shape of a shell fish

What an incredible little town in the Silver Coast area of Portugal. Such calm waters in the twice-protected little marina. Historically, a ship building and fishing village, the cove here is scallop-shaped and has a restricted, very small opening to the open sea.

We met a Brit who is a resident in a nearby town. He has resided in this area for 16 years and states that he is unlikely to leave. Educated in England as a geologist/engineer, he has lived in South America, South Africa, Uzbekistan, the middle east, and all over western Europe. We had an enjoyable visit before leaving for Nazare.

Nazare

Nazare retains the remnants of a thousand + year religious tradition that today includes several festivals, processions, and pageants. Most recently, it has become a large wave surfing attraction thanks to the underwater Nazare Canyon producing occasional waves in excess of 80 feet measured from shoulder to peak. It has become a required spot for aspiring big wave, name-building surfers. When the big waves come, videographers and still photographers pack a vantage point, Fort Sao Miguel Arcanjo, high up on a cliff overlooking the surf, where they capture and publish accounts of record breaking rides.

Do you like seafood? Enjoy picking through shell fish and fin fish and potatoes in a light, peppery broth? Call it out with me, now: Cataplana. Oh yes! Order it anywhere in Portugal. In the town of Nazare, visit the Mar Bravo restaurant and git ya some there. Finish off the meal with the most incredible chocolate mousse, so soft, so smooth. And add a sweet, syrupy liqueur called Ginjinah, or play it safe with a Porto. Why not?

Big wave pioneers have popularized Nazare in recent years making it a required stop in the surfing world. (Photo courtesy of Wikipedia)

Portugal: Quarteira Food

 

Crepes and Espresso are very near a requirement, at least weekly, right?

12 Feb

We walked along the marina in Quarteira today to take a break from driving. Happened by one of the gelado/creperie shops and were driven by some irresistible force that nearly jerked me off my feet pulling me into a chair where, embarrassed, and not wanting to offend, I felt compelled to order at least this. I agreed to the addition of the strawberries for the health benefits.

That evening, Mary Lou found a restaurant on line that specializes in suckling pig. After a nanosecond of consideration, we decided to try it out. Oh yes, it was the right call. Flavorful, tender, moist, perfect. Just as we remember it from a similar experience in Madrid a decade or so ago. The house red was just right, the rice perfectly cooked, the salad delightfully tangy, the waiter attentive and amusing, the decor old world. 

It was a relaxing, satisfying day with the added benefit of a culinary adventure.

Hardly does it justice. The platter contained several more fuller pieces with slices of orange for color.

Portugal: Lagos

Beach at Lagos, Portugal

When you visit Portugal, as you must, plan a day in Lagos. Sandy beaches, of course, but also steep cliffs, outcroppings, and caves of sandstone so soft and unstable that warning signs alerting you to the likelihood of erosion and collapse abound. Heed them, tread carefully, stay alert. Avoid the ledges and assume you will suffer terribly when you fall. 

Lagos is in that part of the Algarve where the Bensafrim River meets the Atlantic Ocean. It was a major shipping port well before the days of Henry the Navigator, 1394 -1460. 

On our visit the weather was mild, the water calm and incredibly turquoise, and visibility was excellent. Intrepid young people plied the water on kayaks, standup paddle boards, and those paddle boards with sails (what do you call those things?) The water was dotted with water craft of all shapes and sizes. 

This is the off season, so we had no trouble parking or getting seated at a charming little restaurant where we enjoyed a high quality lunch at reasonable prices. We understand that during the high season the resident population and tourists swell the place substantially. I would think so. 

Short cruises from Portimao and Alvor operate daily during the season, sporadically during the off season. Book one.

It's farther down that it looks

 

This one you walk through, others you sail through

Portugal: Cascais 08 Feb 22

The Marina at Cascais

     

Cascais (cash-kice) is a fishing/seaport tourist destination so close to Lisboa that it may as well be considered a suburb. We spent two days there at a beautiful hotel, the Grand Real Villa Italia. I could add numerous superlatives about the location, the accommodations, and of course, the food; but why?--you can easily imagine it all if you remember truly idyllic scenes in movies during which you wished you were there.

We strolled more than 10,000 strides, or whatever it is that Fitbit measures, each day according to ML's wristband. Given the soreness of my back, legs, and other joints and appendages, I am confident in her declaration.

This was ML's third visit there, my second. We would have no hesitation about taking each and everyone of y'all there (or, is it supposed to be "all y'all"? I don't speak Texican as well as I used to).

Portugal: Portimao/Alvor

5 Feb 2022

Late breakfast in the apartment in Quarteira -- Shocking, right? Arrived Portimao, a nearby port city, around 1100 hrs. Saw several of the most incredibly slick, sleek, skinny-ass kayaks on the water transporting mostly very young happy persons shouting, singing, flirting, laughing.

Enjoyed espresso, of course, and pastel de nata (so sweet, so custardy, so ubiquitous in Portugal, clearly a national treasure). We strolled along the docks and side streets and hills among incredibly old and modern buildings. We really liked the look and feel of this place. So much more to explore and enjoy within the Algarve and the Silver Coast.  

Alvor 

Alvor is a civil parish (frequesia) in the municipality of Portimao. It's about a 10-minute drive from Portimao, very small with mostly stark white buildings of condominiums, apartments, villas, and retail businesses. Many of the residences overlook an incredibly scenic inland waterway connecting boaters to the open sea. Kiosks, mostly shuttered during the off-season, house businesses conducting water tours. There is one we'd like to try from Alvor to Lagos, perhaps in late March before we return to the States.

Here we had an early seafood dinner, mine was octopus, ML stuck with Salmon. Was there wine? There may have been. 

Portugal: Lisbon/Quarteira

4 Feb 2022

We arrived in Lisbon a few days ago -- you will never find precision in my accounts, don't ask for it. I think we got past jet lag yesterday, or maybe the day before that. We recommend you save some extra money as you plan your trip here for the business class update that is so worth the expense.

Two nights in Lisbon: Sightseeing. Eating. Walking, 7 miles one day according to ML's Fitbit. A tuk-tuk tour with our driver/guide, Carlos, pointing out the important spots. Enjoyed the most incredible meals of fish, potatoes, greens, and maybe a glass or two of wine (important to hydrate, doncha' know?)

We rented a car for the trip to Quarteira in the Algarve. It's a beautiful coastal town with a marina berthing very high-end sea going vessels of various sizes with one, two, and three hulls, incredible shapes and colors. It's a bit touristy here but not at all crowded in this the off-season. More fish lunches and dinners and maybe another glass or two of wine. We are told that the population expands to about 10 times its current number beginning in late March.

For our entire two-month stay here, we rented a very nice small apartment in Quarteira from a lovely couple, Mauricio, an Italian, and Orianna, a Colombian. We communicated in English and very basic Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese. Well, to even use the term basic is to overstate the case, but I keep trying. I think they were amused.

Yesterday, we drove a few kilometers to a rustic town called Tavira, still in the Algarve, and then to Faro, another small coastal town nearby, where we enjoyed; you guessed it, fish, veggies, and maybe another glass or two of wine (see a pattern here?) I'm sure there are some charming parts to Faro; we just did not encounter them.

Today we lunched with a charming Scottish couple, the Ellis's, friends of our friend Sharon from Dallas, who made the introduction for us. The Ellis's live in a beautiful golf resort and have lived in Portugal for the last twenty years, or so. We enjoyed a delicious meal of . . . well, you know. What a gracious couple. We'll be seeing more of them.

I'll add some photos in future posts. For now, I'll keep it brief, sparse, sparing. 

Ciao.